[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"guide-tags":3,"guides-tag-exterior-1":36},{"data":4},[5,10,15,19,24,28,32],{"id":6,"slug":7,"name":8,"count":9},"tag_exterior","exterior","Exterior",5,{"id":11,"slug":12,"name":13,"count":14},"tag_faq","faq","FAQ",2,{"id":16,"slug":17,"name":18,"count":14},"tag_howto","howto","How-to",{"id":20,"slug":21,"name":22,"count":23},"tag_interior","interior","Interior",1,{"id":25,"slug":26,"name":27,"count":14},"tag_prep","prep","Prep",{"id":29,"slug":30,"name":31,"count":14},"tag_pricing","pricing","Pricing",{"id":33,"slug":34,"name":35,"count":14},"tag_seasonal","seasonal","Seasonal",{"data":37},{"items":38,"page":23,"limit":82,"total":83,"totalPages":23},[39,53,62,72],{"id":40,"type":41,"slug":42,"title":43,"excerpt":44,"body":45,"hero_r2_key":46,"og_image_r2_key":46,"seo_title":47,"seo_description":48,"author_name":49,"status":50,"published_at":51,"featured":23,"reading_time_minutes":9,"created_at":51,"updated_at":52},"art_peeling_paint_2026_05_01","guide","why-is-exterior-paint-peeling-spokane","Why Is My Exterior Paint Peeling? Common Causes in the Spokane Climate","Peeling paint almost always points to one of five culprits. Here are the most common causes on Spokane-area homes and a 5-step way to figure out which one is yours.","\u003Cp>Few things make a house look more tired than paint that is bubbling, flaking, or peeling off in sheets. The good news is that peeling almost always traces back to one of a handful of root causes, and once you know which one is yours, the fix is usually straightforward.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>Spokane's climate is a particular flavor of tough on exterior coatings. Bright, dry summers bring strong UV. Freeze-thaw winters swing humidity wildly. Shoulder seasons leave surfaces damp longer than people realize. Each of those conditions accelerates a different failure mode, so the pattern of the failure is usually a clue to the cause.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>The five most common causes\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Ch3>1. Moisture intrusion behind the coating\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Paint needs a dry surface to bond to. If water is getting behind your siding from a leaking gutter, a hose bib without a back-flow seal, splash from grade that sits too high, or a bathroom vent dumping into a soffit, the wood underneath can stay wet long after the surface looks dry. Paint applied over that, or paint trying to seal in moisture that wants out, will lose its grip first.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>2. Poor prep on the prior coat\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Most exterior failures we get called out on have one thing in common: prep on the previous job was skipped or rushed. Loose paint that was not scraped, glossy areas that were not scuffed, chalky surfaces that were not washed and primed, any of these put the new coat at war with the old one. Fresh paint sticks to whatever it lands on, including the loose stuff that was about to let go anyway.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>3. UV degradation on south and west exposures\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Spokane sees a lot of sun, and the south and west sides of most homes take the brunt of it. Over time, UV breaks down the resins that hold paint pigment together. The early signs are chalking and fading. The later signs are micro-cracking and full peel-back. If only one or two sides of your house are failing while the others look fine, exposure is almost always the reason.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>4. Freeze-thaw cycling under porous coatings\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Water that gets into a hairline crack in winter expands as it freezes. Repeat that cycle dozens of times across a Spokane winter and a hairline becomes a peel. Older oil-based exteriors are especially vulnerable because they get brittle as they age and stop flexing with the substrate.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>5. Incompatible coatings stacked on top of each other\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Putting fresh latex over old oil-based paint without proper bonding primer is one of the fastest ways to guarantee a peel. The same goes for elastomeric coatings over standard acrylic, or any coating applied over a chalky surface. The two layers refuse to behave like one film, and the weaker bond gives way first.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>How to diagnose your peeling paint\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Cp>Before you decide what to do about it, walk through these five steps. They take about an hour and they tell you what you are actually dealing with.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Col>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Identify the elevation and aspect.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Look at where the failures are. Are they on one side of the house, around windows and doors, near the ground, or near the roof line? Pattern is the first clue. South and west exposures point to UV. Failures near the ground or under gutters point to moisture.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Check moisture sources.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Walk the perimeter. Look at gutters, downspouts, splash zones, hose bibs, and grade. Anywhere water collects or hits the siding is a candidate. Note any spots where mulch or soil contacts the siding directly.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Examine the failure pattern.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Is the peel coming off down to bare substrate, or is it lifting between coats? Inter-coat failure points to a bonding issue from the last paint job. Down-to-substrate failure points to moisture or substrate damage.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Test surrounding areas with a tape pull.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Press a strip of painter's tape firmly onto a still-attached area near the failure and pull it off in one motion. If paint comes with the tape, the bond is compromised farther than you can see.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Photograph and measure.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Take wide shots and close-ups, and note rough square footage of affected area. This tells your painter, or you, the scope of the prep that is actually needed.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003C\u002Fol>\n\n\u003Ch2>When to call a pro\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Cp>Small, isolated failures, say a foot or two around a window, can be spot-prepped, primed, and feathered into the existing coat. Once you are looking at multiple square feet across one or more elevations, or any failure that goes down to bare wood, it usually makes more sense to repaint the affected sides as a whole unit. Spot-repairs on an aged paint job often look like spot-repairs.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>One important note: \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fabout\u002F\">Apex Painting\u003C\u002Fa> does not service homes built before 1978 with confirmed or suspected lead-based paint. If your home is in that range and you are seeing failures, please get a lead test before any prep starts.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>If you would like a free walkthrough on the failures you are seeing, you can \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fquote\u002F\">request a quote here\u003C\u002Fa>. We will tell you what we see, what we think the cause is, and whether you are looking at spot-repair or a full repaint.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>For the prep details that prevent peeling on your next paint job, see our \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fguides\u002Fhow-to-prep-home-exterior-painting\u002F\">guide on prepping a home for exterior painting\u003C\u002Fa>. And if you are trying to figure out how often you should be repainting in the first place, our \u003Ca href=\"\u002Ffaqs\u002Fhow-often-to-repaint-spokane\u002F\">repaint timing FAQ\u003C\u002Fa> has the ranges we see in the Spokane area.\u003C\u002Fp>",null,"Why Is My Exterior Paint Peeling? Spokane Climate Causes & Diagnosis","The most common reasons exterior paint peels, bubbles, or cracks on Spokane-area homes, plus a 5-step diagnosis you can do this weekend.","Apex Painting","published","2026-05-01T12:00:00.000Z","2026-05-02T05:12:38.560Z",{"id":54,"type":41,"slug":55,"title":56,"excerpt":57,"body":58,"hero_r2_key":46,"og_image_r2_key":46,"seo_title":59,"seo_description":60,"author_name":49,"status":50,"published_at":51,"featured":23,"reading_time_minutes":9,"created_at":51,"updated_at":61},"art_paint_sheen_2026_05_01","paint-sheen-guide-matte-eggshell-satin-gloss","Paint Sheen Guide: Matte, Eggshell, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss","The right sheen does as much for your paint job as the right color. Here is what each finish is good at, where it belongs, and a quick room-by-room cheat sheet.","\u003Cp>Color usually gets all the attention, but sheen is doing just as much work in any paint job. The difference between a flat ceiling and a satin one is not subtle, and using the wrong sheen on the wrong surface can turn a good color into a finish that looks off no matter what you do. This is the cheat sheet we walk Spokane homeowners through during color consultations.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>The five common sheens, top to bottom\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Ch3>Matte (also called flat)\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Matte has almost no light reflection. It absorbs the eye and hides surface flaws, which is why it is the default for ceilings and most low-traffic walls in modern homes. The trade-off is washability. Scrubbing a matte wall with a damp sponge tends to leave a slightly burnished spot. Premium matte lines have improved noticeably in the last few years and now hold up to gentle cleaning, but they still cannot match satin for hard scrubbing.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Best for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> ceilings, formal living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Skip it for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> kitchens, bathrooms, hallways with kids and pets.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>Eggshell\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Eggshell has a slight glow when light hits it directly. It is washable, hides most wall imperfections, and is the most popular interior wall sheen for a reason. It works in nearly every room of the house and forgives a lot of mistakes during application.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Best for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> living rooms, bedrooms, hallways, family rooms, and most general-purpose interior walls.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Skip it for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> ceilings (looks busy), and surfaces that need frequent scrubbing.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>Satin\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Satin is the workhorse of modern paint. It has a clear but soft sheen, holds up to scrubbing, and resists moisture. It is what we recommend on most exterior siding in our area and on any interior surface that gets touched, splashed, or cleaned regularly.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Best for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> kitchens, bathrooms, kids' rooms, exterior siding, mudrooms, laundry rooms.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Skip it for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> ceilings (highlights texture), and rooms where you want a soft, formal feel.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>Semi-gloss\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Semi-gloss is reflective enough to be obvious. It is hard, scrubbable, and the standard for surfaces that get bumped, wiped, and slammed. Trim, doors, baseboards, and built-ins almost always want semi-gloss.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Best for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> trim, doors, baseboards, window frames, cabinets, hand rails.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Skip it for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> wall fields (too shiny), uneven surfaces (highlights flaws), and ceilings.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>Gloss\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Gloss is a mirror finish. It is the toughest, most washable sheen available, but it shows every imperfection underneath it. We use it sparingly: front doors, accent trim, and the occasional commercial application. On most residential exteriors and interiors it reads as too much.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Best for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> front doors, accent trim, high-touch handrails, commercial work.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Skip it for:\u003C\u002Fstrong> wall fields, ceilings, and any surface that is not perfectly smooth.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>Quick reference by room and surface\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Ctable>\n  \u003Cthead>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Cth>Surface\u003C\u002Fth>\u003Cth>Recommended sheen\u003C\u002Fth>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n  \u003C\u002Fthead>\n  \u003Ctbody>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Ceilings (most rooms)\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Flat \u002F Matte\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Living room, dining room walls\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Eggshell\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Bedroom walls\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Eggshell or Matte\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Kitchen walls\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Satin\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Bathroom walls and ceilings\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Satin (eggshell on a low-moisture half-bath is fine)\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Kids' rooms, playrooms\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Satin\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Hallways, mudrooms\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Satin\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Trim, doors, baseboards\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Semi-gloss\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Cabinets and built-ins\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Semi-gloss\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Front doors\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Semi-gloss or Gloss\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Exterior siding\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Satin (low-sheen acrylic)\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n    \u003Ctr>\u003Ctd>Exterior trim\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003Ctd>Semi-gloss\u003C\u002Ftd>\u003C\u002Ftr>\n  \u003C\u002Ftbody>\n\u003C\u002Ftable>\n\n\u003Ch2>Interior vs exterior sheen choices\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>Modern exterior acrylics have shifted toward satin and low-sheen finishes for siding, with semi-gloss reserved for trim and doors. Older homes were sometimes painted in flat exteriors, which look great when fresh but stain easily and are nearly impossible to clean without damage. If you are considering flat on an exterior repaint, weigh the look against the cleaning reality. In Spokane, where we get pollen, road dust, and sprinkler overspray, satin tends to age better.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>Mixing sheens in a single room\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>Most professional jobs use at least three sheens in a finished room: flat or matte on the ceiling, eggshell or satin on the walls, and semi-gloss on the trim and doors. The transitions read as intentional and let each surface do its own job. Trying to use a single sheen across an entire room almost always looks off somewhere.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>If you are trying to figure out how all this fits into a real paint budget, our \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fguides\u002Fhouse-painting-cost-spokane\u002F\">guide on Spokane painting costs\u003C\u002Fa> covers what drives a quote. And if you are not sure how often you should be repainting in the first place, our \u003Ca href=\"\u002Ffaqs\u002Fhow-often-to-repaint-spokane\u002F\">repaint timing FAQ\u003C\u002Fa> has typical ranges for our area.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>Ready to talk about a specific project? \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fquote\u002F\">Request a free walkthrough\u003C\u002Fa> and we will help you pick sheens during the on-site visit.\u003C\u002Fp>","Paint Sheen Guide: Matte vs Eggshell vs Satin vs Gloss (Where Each Belongs)","Which paint sheen goes where? A practical guide to matte, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, with what we recommend for each room and exterior surface.","2026-05-02T05:12:36.592Z",{"id":63,"type":41,"slug":64,"title":65,"excerpt":66,"body":67,"hero_r2_key":46,"og_image_r2_key":46,"seo_title":68,"seo_description":69,"author_name":49,"status":50,"published_at":70,"featured":23,"reading_time_minutes":14,"created_at":70,"updated_at":71},"art_season_2026_04_19","exterior-painting-season-spokane","When Is the Best Time to Paint Your House in Spokane?","Spokane gives you a real but short exterior painting window. Here is how the weather shapes the season, why spring slots fill fastest, and what to do if your project lands in late fall.","\u003Cp>Spokane has a real exterior painting season, and it is shorter than most people think. The window where paint can cure properly runs from late April through mid-October in a typical year, and the practical booking season is even narrower once you account for morning dew, cold snaps, and wildfire smoke.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>The conditions paint actually needs\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>Modern exterior paints want a stable stretch of the following:\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cul>\n  \u003Cli>Air and surface temperature above 50°F, ideally above 60°F, and staying there overnight.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>No rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours after the final coat.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>Humidity below 85%.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>No direct sun on the wall being painted (we follow the shade around the house).\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003C\u002Ful>\n\u003Cp>Below 50°F the paint film does not coalesce correctly, and you pay for it with peeling two or three years out. In our shop, if the wall is too cold to paint, we do not paint it, even if the calendar says we should.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>The Spokane calendar\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\n\u003Ch3>Late April through May\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>First reliable stretch of warm, dry days. Perfect for prep and first coats on south and west exposures. Morning temperatures are the main constraint, and we typically start later in the day than we do in summer.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>June through August\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Peak season. Long days, warm overnight lows, and we can run full schedules. The tradeoff is booking pressure. Our summer calendar usually fills by the end of March.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>September and early October\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Excellent conditions. The heat backs off, the light is softer, and the bugs thin out. If you missed spring booking, early fall is the strongest time to get on the schedule.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch3>Late October and beyond\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Cold snaps arrive quickly. We can sometimes finish a project into late October on a south-facing exposure, but we do not start new exterior work once overnight lows stay below 45°F.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>When to reach out\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>For summer work, get on the schedule in February or March. For fall work, reach out by early July. \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fservices\u002Fexterior-painting\u002F\">Exterior painting\u003C\u002Fa> and \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fservices\u002Fpressure-washing\u002F\">pressure washing\u003C\u002Fa> share a calendar, and washing typically happens a few days before paint so the siding has time to dry.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>We paint homes across Spokane, including \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fareas\u002Fspokane\u002F\">central Spokane\u003C\u002Fa>, \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fareas\u002Fspokane-valley\u002F\">Spokane Valley\u003C\u002Fa>, Liberty Lake, Mead, Colbert, and Deer Park. \u003Ca href=\"\u002F#quote\">Request a quote\u003C\u002Fa> and we will give you a realistic window based on where your project lands in the season.\u003C\u002Fp>","Best Time for Exterior Painting in Spokane | Apex Painting","Spokane exterior paint window runs late April through mid-October. See how temperature, humidity, and booking pressure affect when to schedule a repaint.","2026-04-19T20:00:00.000Z","2026-05-02T05:12:31.595Z",{"id":73,"type":41,"slug":74,"title":75,"excerpt":76,"body":77,"hero_r2_key":46,"og_image_r2_key":46,"seo_title":78,"seo_description":79,"author_name":49,"status":50,"published_at":70,"featured":23,"reading_time_minutes":80,"created_at":70,"updated_at":81},"art_prep_2026_04_19","how-to-prep-home-exterior-painting","How to Prep Your Home for Exterior Painting","Good exterior paint lives or dies at the prep stage. Here is the step-by-step process we run before the first drop of paint lands, and what homeowners can do to save money on job day.","\u003Cp>Exterior paint fails from the bottom up. The coat you see on top is usually only as good as the prep underneath it, which is why a real exterior job spends more time on prep than on painting. Here is exactly how we do it, and where you can help ahead of time.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>Why prep matters\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>Paint bonds to the surface it touches. If that surface is dirty, chalky, loose, or damaged, the paint bonds to that, not to the siding. A premium paint on bad prep lasts three years. A mid-grade paint on great prep lasts ten.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Ch2>The six-step exterior prep sequence\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Col>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Clear the work zone.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Move patio furniture, grills, and anything stored against the house at least six feet out from the walls. Cut back bushes and vines that touch the siding. Coil hoses and relocate anything breakable.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Pressure wash the siding.\u003C\u002Fstrong> We soft-wash the entire exterior to remove dust, pollen, spider webs, mildew, and loose chalk. This has to happen first, because every later step depends on a clean, sound surface. The siding then dries for at least 24 hours before anything else touches it.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Scrape and sand loose paint.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Any paint that can be popped off with a scraper is coming off in the first year of the new job if we leave it. We scrape to sound material, then feather-sand the edges so the transition does not telegraph through the finish coat.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Repair damaged siding and trim.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Rotted trim gets replaced or epoxied depending on the extent. Loose boards get re-nailed or re-screwed. Holes bigger than a dime get filled with exterior-grade wood filler and sanded flush.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Caulk every gap.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Window trim, door trim, corner boards, anywhere two pieces of wood meet. We use a paintable exterior caulk that stays flexible through Spokane's freeze-thaw cycle. Old caulk that has split or pulled away gets cut out before new caulk goes down.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>\u003Cstrong>Spot-prime bare wood and repairs.\u003C\u002Fstrong> Any raw wood from scraping or filler gets a stain-blocking primer before topcoat. Skipping this step is how bleed-through and tannin stains ruin a paint job six months later.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003C\u002Fol>\n\n\u003Ch2>What you can handle ahead of job day\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>You do not have to do any of this, but homeowners who want to trim the quote can knock out the easy wins:\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cul>\n  \u003Cli>Trim back shrubs, vines, and anything touching the siding.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>Remove storm windows or screens you want cleaned separately.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>Park vehicles on the street or in the garage on painting days.\u003C\u002Fli>\n  \u003Cli>Make sure we have access to water and a couple of outdoor outlets.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003C\u002Ful>\n\n\u003Ch2>What we always handle\u003C\u002Fh2>\n\u003Cp>Pressure washing, scraping, sanding, repairs, caulk, and priming are ours. None of these steps are optional on an Apex Painting exterior job, even if the quote came in under a competitor. Skipping prep to hit a price point is not a path we offer.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\n\u003Cp>If you are thinking about an \u003Ca href=\"\u002Fservices\u002Fexterior-painting\u002F\">exterior repaint\u003C\u002Fa> this season, the prep walk is part of the free quote. \u003Ca href=\"\u002F#quote\">Get in touch\u003C\u002Fa> and we will walk the house, check the condition, and send a written bid.\u003C\u002Fp>","How to Prep a House for Exterior Painting | Apex Painting","Step-by-step guide to prepping a house for exterior painting: landscaping, pressure washing, scraping, repairs, caulk, and priming. Plus what homeowners can handle.",3,"2026-05-02T05:12:33.103Z",10,4]